Human rights

 

Human and workers’ rights

The beauty and personal care sectors increasingly rely on natural raw materials. Many of these sectors’ distinctive ingredients are botanicals such as citrus, flowers, herbs, spices. A recent study by UEBT  called Sourcing botanicals with respect for people and biodiversity, shows that such botanicals are important for local livelihoods of tens of thousands of small farmers. 

However, the study also shows that revenues do not offer farmers decent living conditions. Some supply chains even face challenges around human rights (with some reported cases of child work). Based on more than 100 field assessments of botanicals (that include confidential interviews with rights holders – workers, pickers, community members - as part of each assessment), the report found that challenges surrounding unfair pay to be one of the top three potential risks.  Specifically, minimum wage equivalents are often not met when prices are paid to pickers or farmers, and few actions are seen to move towards living wages.  

The cultivation of botanicals is often carried out by small holders who lack the political or economic power to influence supply chains in such a way as to secure fair sourcing arrangements.  In addition, benefits have often been for large scale operations downstream in the supply chain and not for small producers and workers, including the tens of thousands of women who often pick or collect these raw materials.   

UEBT standard - human and workers’ rights

The UEBT standard includes requirements on human rights, including child rights in alignment with the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child. It includes requirements aligned with human and workers’ rights following core International Labour Organisation (ILO) Conventions such as:

  • Freedom of Association

  • Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining

  • Child Labour, Forced Labour; and Minimum Age of Work

  • Equal Remuneration

  • Anti-Discrimination

  • Occupational Safety and Health

UEBT membership and human rights

When companies seek to become UEBT members, they make five commitments related to sourcing, and meet six minimum requirements from the UEBT standard.  The six minimum requirements are checked at the level of the company (not suppliers or in supply chains).  Among those six requirements are three focused on social issues: 

  • no evidence of ongoing or unresolved human rights infringement 

  • minimum age for employment is 15 years or higher if defined by national law 

  • wages of workers are paid at least in line with official minimum wage regulations or collective bargaining agreements. 

In addition, UEBT member companies commit to monitoring and managing risks for people and biodiversity beyond the company and into and along supply chains, including through due diligence on cultivation and wild collection practices for ingredients from biodiversity. Companies also need to respond to growing due diligence policies around the world and UEBT supports companies with practical due diligence tools to identify and manage natural raw material supply chain risks. Due diligence consists of several components, including assessing risks in supply chains and action to prevent or mitigate such risks.

Promoting responsible purchasing practices of natural fragrance supply chains in India and Egypt

Starting in late 2023, UEBT has begun working with business, government, and civil society stakeholders in Egyptian and Indian supply chains of key botanicals commonly used in fragrances for the beauty and personal care sectors. The project seeks to better understand the potential risks of unsustainable harvesting and collection practices of botanicals and the potentially difficult working conditions of farmers and farm workers, many of which women. The project will carry out research and dialogue with stakeholders, including rights holders in sourcing areas, and should result in action by individual companies and their suppliers, as well as possible sector-level actions.

UEBT is implementing a project on corporate due diligence that includes research and participatory risk assessments on jasmine, herbs and spices in Egypt. Recent steps include an exchange with companies, cooperatives, research institutes, civil society and local government representatives on the context, constraints, and opportunities for responsible sourcing (pictured above). Learn more about this project here.

Tackling social challenges in Carnauba in Brazil

Carnauba wax is a major export product, with unique properties and used in the food, cosmetics, pharma and polishing sectors. However, there are challenges, including slavery-like working conditions. The UEBT hosted working group, the Initiative for Responsible Carnauba, requires local wax processing companies to sign agreements with the Brazilian government and work on improvement plans. Buyers commit to responsible sourcing. But many companies are not part of the Initiative, and many companies are not yet sourcing verified or certified Carnauba.

UEBT hosts the Secretariat of the Initiative for Responsible Carnauba (IRC), a sectoral working group focused on tackling environmental and social challenges prevalent in Carnauba wax extraction areas in northeast Brazil. Challenges include poor working conditions, low pay and some incidences of child labour. The problems are often systemic, with a wide range of factors involved that contribute to the challenges. Learn more about the IRC here.

UEBT responsible sourcing risk database

In 2022, UEBT launched the responsible sourcing risk database, an online tool tailored to the particular social, environmental and economic risks related to ingredients from biodiversity.  It provides specific risk scores on a set of environmental and social issues at the ingredient level and at the country level.  The database is regularly updated and allows for combining risk assessments from both the country and ingredient levels.  

The UEBT due diligence tools are based on the internationally recognised UEBT standard and include four risk categories, including human and workers’ rights.   

Working groups

UEBT is involved in various initiatives that bring together local and international stakeholders to improve sourcing practices. These initiatives operate on a pre-competitive basis that goes beyond any individual supply chain to build on collaboration on systemic or landscape level issues such as local working conditions and or ecosystem degradation. Initiatives usually focus on specific ingredients. The Initiative for Responsible Carnauba is one example of these working groups (see box).